Rain, rain go away

Today we said goodbye to Vic and Candie. They went off to Geneva in search of better weather and new passport stamps. I don't think they've gotten used to the end of passport controls within the European Union. I spoke to my dad after their return to Lyon--they go to Paris tomorrow morning to catch their flight home--and he said they had a good time. They saw lots of soccer fans in Geneva; the European championships began tonight and the game between Portugal and Turkey was played in Geneva. Perhaps we will get a fuller report later.

After seeing his grandparents off, Eli went with Ally and me to the market in the rain. We looked at many things but bought few. For lunch we bought peas still in their shells and potatoes from a rotisserie place. These are boiled potatoes dressed with parsley, onion, and bacon and placed under the chickens as they roast so that they soak up the juices that run off the chickens. They are even better than they sound. We had these items for lunch later. We also bought madeleines, a tartette, and a pastry called bras de Venus (arm of Venus). I got an empanada from a guy who claimed to be Mexican. It was surprisingly flavorful for food sold in France. He also listed chili con carne on his placard. I wonder how much of that he has ever served; it's something most French people would hate. Too spicy. We also took some pictures in front of the Fresque des Lyonnais, a mural showing famous figures from Lyon's past and present. For instance, behind me in the chef's toque is Paul Bocuse. Appearing to come down the steps is the late Abbé Pierre.

We went home and had the potatoes and peas for lunch, then let Eli nap. Then we all went back downtown, taking advantage of our transit daypasses and a stop in the rain. While waiting for the bus, we saw a lot of people kayaking and rowing in the Saône. Lyon, and specifically this part of the Saône, is one of the centers of French competitive rowing, aviron. Keep in mind that, historically, propelling boats through the water with muscle-power was the work of slaves or, in classical Athens, the lowest class of citizen. Why people in France and America would choose to do this escapes me. At least the French rowers were out during daylight and not at the crack of dawn, when American college crew teams do their work.

We had vague plans to go to Part Dieu or something, but then Ally's former colleague Zoë called and we decided to meet at Terreaux, by the Hôtel de Ville, and have drinks. It was great getting to know her a little. It was just such an odd coincidence running into her as we did a week ago.

It seemed like everyone in Lyon was out during the afternoon, probably owing to it being Saturday and, by recent standards, fair weather. Although it was kind of chilly, there was no rain falling. There were a number of parties including one oddly-dressed young man. We learned these were bachelor parties. Apparently in an early stage of the French bachelor party, the groom is made to dress in a costume and embarrass himself in public. One assumes things go downhill from there.

Anyway, Eli, Ally, and I made our way over to the Parc de la Tête d'Or. We wanted to say goodbye to the place. People were bicycling, playing games with balls and frisbees, and generally enjoying their weekends. We took Eli to the elephant habitat and he started making his "ela-ela" sound. But the elephants were all put away for the evening. We decided to get back home and had good luck with buses, which are pretty infrequent on weekday evenings.

We came back home, put Eli to bed, then packed and cleaned. Tomorrow we move out, take the train to Paris, and meet up with Sam, Ally's father.